Sunday, June 10, 2012

Ubahn food or Bourdain's paradise

Ubahn food or Bourdain's paradise
Ah yes, the underground wonder of the german metro system. Food, frites, the ever present Müller bread , pet stores, drugstores alles.
My fav schnell Imbiss is at Marienplatz Ubahn station. A little wurst stand right across from the information booth. Brats, currywurst, hotdogs any type of meat in a roll, they got it. Leberkase too- which although it sounds like liver, there is no liver in it . It can best be described as meatloaf only with meats of unknown origins inside. Sort of like head cheese (Sülze) . - I can hear Bourdain purring now.

Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Borscht, holoobtsee, pihreezhkih

Borsch, holoobtsee,  pihreezhkih and hariachy

THe ukrainian food. - stuffed. Stuffed meat pastries, stuffed cabbage rolls. Stuffed crepes.
If it can be stuffed, they can do it. Borscht- staple and served almost every day. The pih reezhkih- surprisingly tasty. Stuffed meat, usually pork in a pastry. The holoobtsee- do not even taste like cabbage as i have ever tasted before. The rolls are stuffed with ground meat, but can have rice and vegetables for vegetarians. So much more on the food, i could elaborate. Of course, lest I forget the sweets. and sweet they are. The cakes are something else (see below).




Note - Beer is cheaper than bottled water,( which you must drink) .Do not drink tap water.  The beer also has a high alcohol content and a kick like a schnapps.
 All things are served room temp. Which sometimes meant yuk, tepid water. Just ask for hariachy- cold boodlaska.

Airport departure

Airport departure  pro shya vay
Checking in at Lviv airport can be described as every man for himself. No scanning of boarding pass, you pass into security and the baggage goes on belt. If you have gel, etc nobody cares go. Then comes immigration and customs. What were you doing in Ukraine , the usual stuff. A english speaker is procured 
Although I speak a little ukrainian, I was told to play dumb. Passport control is the same as arrival- look, look down, look again. the guard makes a comment in Ukrainian to coworker , than I am let go. No water or food after this point- only vodka. We ran out of water. gee, I wonder why.
Bear in mind, you have another hour to wait in a small room until the bus comes to take you to the plane.
A turkish airways is leaving as well so you can see men in one room, women in the other.
Several Ukrainians are holding brand new US passports.
It is a shame that such a beautiful place has been sullied by dirty politics. But, it seems this is the case everywhere. Keep up the fight Ukraine.

The Lviv chocolate factory, Masoch Cafe' and masonic themed restaurant

The Lviv chocolate factory, Masoch cafe' and masonic themed restaurant

The Lvivians love a good themed restaurant, coffee house or bar.
The chocolate factory nuff said. Reallly surprisingly good quality chocolate up there with the swiss and germans.
The Masoch  cafe'  now that is something else. Apparently, masoch was one wild child. He is where the word SM comes from. Themed waitresses prance around in french maid costumes and carry whips around their necks. To flog willing patrons. The restaurant has handcuffs, sexual connotation and decoration everywhere. So if you want dinner with a perverse show this is the place.

The masonic restaurant. Technically, it doesn't exist.
A rather ordinary building. The only hint. A symbol above one of the darkened windows. Inside the building. You hike the 2 flights of stairs. An unmarked door is the entrance. You knock and 2 guys in beaten up plaid watch robes open the door and ask what you want- a password is given, then they decide if they want to let you inside. It is set up to look like an apartment but in reality is the entrance to the restaurant. Each room is themed. Ours had pictures of George washington and the early founders on the wallpaper. It is as dark as a cave inside . In fact many of the restaurants in Lviv are like this which makes you wonder if they were old bomb shelters. Lots of old wood too, if there is a fire folks- we are toast. Literally.



There also is a coffee factory - complete with beans coming out of the wall.
They also have a tour of sorts into the dark bowels of the underground cavern but the air quality was that of a mine.
 The man in the Hall

Who is this man in the hall and what is he doing? He sits outside my room on week days. Am I being guarded or kept in. His expression never changes much like the man downstairs door porter.

The arrival- W elcome Laskavo prosihmo

The dash dehavillan touched down thursday afternoon on a wet, soggy day. After skipping across the small landing strip, he came to a stop. Outside, armed soldiers with kalisnakovs were anxiously waiting our arrival. Instead of going to new Airport terminal , we were put on a bus and taken on a dirt road to a building from the communist era. Our luggage was put on a cart with a man standing on it . It was some motorized cart.
In the rain we stood as they let in maybe 10 people a time . The hall was an old building beckoning the soviet occupation. The smoke was as dense as a russian bar in brighton beach. 
Finally. My turn. Look up,  then look at passport. Look again.
Unfortunately, a turkish air lands the same time so they are ripping their suitcases to shreds. I just hold up my passport and hope for the best. Luckily, i get through.
My friend and his father in law are waiting outside. Vitaio. Laskavo poshimo to lviv.
Under the rain ,a 2 hr taxi wait for a 15 minute ride. Yes, boris has not been gone long enough.
The taxi is either a lada or skoda, I am unsure at this point.
I am thinking ... I am back in east germany before the wall comes down.

The hotel
The hotel is named after Vienna but there is nothing viennese about this place other than the pictures on the wall and the coffee house downstairs which has an array of cakes harkening back to the austro-hungarian era.
Lviv was part of the Austro- Hungarian empire so you will see architecture from this era around town.
The hotel has no elevator so the walk upstairs begins. Stoney faced security guards sit down stairs smoking unknown brands of cigarettes. The smoke is dense everywhere her.
. The room is a jr suite which by european standards is a regular room at any 3 star european hotel. No minibar. Tv with russian and ukrainian stations .
However, immaculately clean and great water pressure. In fact, on departure the cleaning lady thanks me profusely for the small tip I left. I would love to take her home with me to clean
I have a room with a view. From the balcony, i see the square where twice a day the loudspeaker blares out something in ukrainian such as rise and shine,
Actually could be publicity but reminds me of soviet times when the speakers woke up everybody in the morning. Rise and shine comrades it is a great day to work.
Every night there is entertainment in the square below the room such as music or fire throwers. It is a form of escape. Escape as i have been told from people who want change but are ok with status quo. Remember, this country is free it is no longer communist but is it really free?